Crisis. The journey of the decadent and tormented mind is Asier Quintana’s SS26 collection, a critical take on classic menswear codes through a visual language that oscillates between the historical and the contemporary.
The project stems from research on the dress restrictions imposed on men in 17th-century Spain under King Philip IV, particularly in regards to collars and cuffs. These limitations, both material and ideological, serve as a lens to question both contemporary and historical gender norms and modes of expression. The collection reimagines these garments with irony, blending Baroque opulence with modern restraint.
Voluminous sleeves, slashed details, ballooned trousers, and upholstery-inspired fabrics draw from early Baroque aesthetics, merging traditional tailoring with experimental pattern-making and styling.
The narrative is inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando and the protagonist's journey through time. Orlando reflects gender as a historical social construct with themes of transformation, time, and identity. The narrative echoes throughout the collection, reflecting both historical and modern conventions.
Both stories share a shift from excess to sobriety, creating a tension between opposing forces. Like Orlando’s wardrobe, which playfully comments on identity and fashion’s dual nature, as both self-expression and constraint, the collection evolves from a decadent, volatile proposal into a distilled and monochromatic resolution.
Through its designs, Crisis is an exploration of gender, social conventions and the pursuit of a liberated identity.
Creative Director
Asier Quintana
Hats
Chenert
Styling & Creative Consultants
Chenert, Gabriel Azkoitia
Casting
Pelonio
Hair
Lóreal
Show Production
Pelonio
Show Team
Jacob Tærsker Adelholm, Gabriel Azkoitia, Julene Gregorio, Gabriela Sánchez, Silvia Murias, Jurdan Camuñas Loroño, Ainhoa Amezua, Jon Mayoral, Txeli Omaetxebarria
BTS
Milo de las Heras, Aísha
Venue:
IFEMA Madrid
Special Thanks
Bilbao International Art & Fashion